![]() ![]() It seems like there is always something new to learn, which is why I’m so hooked on home brewing.Īny info you can provide on the above issues would be great.įinally, are any of these measurements (that are clearly off) affecting other areas like what BeerSmith is saying about IBUs, ABV, OG/SG, etc? I’m about to brew again and if I can’t make all of these corrections immediately, I’d like to know if it’s messing other areas of my recipe up. ![]() Your answer taught me more about mini-mashing than I’ve learned elsewhere, thank you so much. Re: recirculation, thanks, that makes sense. Any suggestions for how to measure this? Or mark my BK for that matter? I usually drain from my 3 gallon cooler into my BK, which is not marked with anything to measure. ![]() When looking at Water Available from Mash, I guess this is another volume I have never measured. I think it’s probably simple, just carefully measuring how much goes in and then how much comes out, but how to account for stuff like trub? Is there any basic information you can share about how to calculate evaporation rates? Regarding boil off / evaporation rates, I have never tried to calculate this before. The new sparge water is added and often the grain steeps for a short time, then is stirred, recirculated and drained. A batch sparge will drain the first runnings into the kettle. If your first runnings are clear, then it isn't a vital step. Recirculation before sparging is to remove grain from the wort and place it back on top of the grain bed. You can see this result as "Water Available from Mash." If this number is accurate to your results, then carry on! If not it can be adjusted in the advanced options menu. You can change the evaporation rate in the equipment profile.īeerSmith also automatically adjusts the first runnings to account for grain absorption. Look at the Vols tab or equipment profile and verify that the boil off rate default matches your actual results. When the "Calculate Boil Automatically" is checked, BeerSmith adds your boil off rate to total mash and sparge water. In all cases, BeerSmith uses your preboil volume to total mash and sparge water. Do I drain out all the wort first and then start adding sparge water, slowly? Any specific tips are appreciated. Is there a way to fix this and is this discrepancy affecting important metrics in my recipe?Ģ.Ě general question about my methods- what is the correct technique for sparging/rinsing my grains into my boil kettle? Do I collect first wort and then run it through again? (I currently do not). I’m not fly sparging and don’t know how to change this to represent what I do, which is to pour another 5 quarts of 170 degree water over the grains in my igloo, which I think is called Batch Sparging. However, in the Sparge section, it says “Fly Sparge with 1.9 gallons of water at 168. That sounds right: about 1.25 quarts per pound, which seems to be the ‘norm’ for mini mashing. When I plug in my recipes into Beersmith, in the “Mash” area, it tells me to add 5 quarts of water at 159.1 degrees and steep for 148 degrees for 75 minutes. I've just started using BeerSmith and enjoy it but I'm a little confused about the Mini Mash settings. Often my mashing/steeping grains are about 4 pounds, and I use a 3 gallon igloo mash tun. I do mini mash brewing, mostly kits from either Austin Homebrew or Northern Brewer and occasionally recipes I find on the web. ![]()
0 Comments
Leave a Reply. |
Details
AuthorWrite something about yourself. No need to be fancy, just an overview. ArchivesCategories |